Now, you have decided to go to Giza on your own. Are your camera and water ready? Taxi! Take me to al-Ahramat, (Arabic for pyramids). As you approach the Giza Plateau, one of the five most exclusive hotels in the country, the Mena House, will be to your right. You will notice the plateau rising in terraces, reflecting the nature of a site with a commanding sight thanks to its height. You swing around and the taxi drops you off. You get out, pay and walk to the ticket booth. There is a line for the ticket area and another for entering the pyramids; Khufu and Khafre. All pyramids here are empty, by dint of a hint, every measure, to hide the treasure, failed to elude the looters, who were lured by the lucre. Go through the metal detector and hike up until you are on the Giza Plateau proper. Here could be your first-but never last-chance to glance at peddlers trying to sell you their treasured trinkets; keep going, make no eye contact and you are scot-free. If you can make out the ent...